When conducting an inspection of the property, the condition, age and proper operation of the major systems of the house (roof, furnace, water heater, electrical, plumbing, and foundation) will be determined by the inspector. In addition, the inspection should also cover items such as the attic, appliances, drainage, exterior, windows, fireplaces, etc. However, there are many things which the purchaser should check independently of this inspection, as you may have particular requirements in some of these areas.

Examples of this would include appearance items such as carpets and finishes on walls and ceilings. Room layouts and location and number of heat and electrical outlets and light fixtures in each room should be checked as these could influence usage and furniture location. You should determine if the operation and adequacy of doors and windows as well as safety items such as stair rails and fire alarms meets your particular standards. Operation of equipment such as the sprinkler system should also be discussed, and sketches and instructions for winterizing should be obtained. It is also possible to call the utility company to determine the past cost of gas and electrical use. Your real estate agent can assist you in obtaining this information.

Remember your home inspector is there to advise you and to answer your questions on the property. The final decision on whether this house will meet all your needs is yours.

During the colder months of year there are many things we should do, or have done to prepare for the season.

First of all, by now your sprinklers should be winterized. It is best to winterize systems using compressed air to blow out the water. Most lawn and sprinkler service companies perform this service in the fall. A small percentage of the systems are self-draining. If you have this type of system be sure the that the system is properly drained to avoid freezing and hose damage.

Hose bibbs or spigots (that valve to which you attach the hose) should also be checked. If you have the type of valve that has the valve seat on the inside of the wall, you need only to disconnect the hose. This is the kind of “frost proof” type of hose bibb that by design does not hold water in the wall which may freeze. If you have an older standard hose bibb, you need to winterize. There should be a valve on the inside of the house called a “Stop and waste” valve. This interior valve should be shut off and the pipe drained to reduce the chance of damage to the pipe by freezing. To drain the pipe, both the exterior valve and the small drain cap on the side of the interior valve should be opened after the interior valve is closed.

Swamp coolers, of course, should be drained and the water supply line disconnected. Put a cover over these units as well as air conditioning compressors. This will better protect the machinery and keep the dirt and debris out.

Making sure that caulking around doors, windows, etc. is in good condition is important in reducing heat losses from the structure. It has been estimated that approximately 40% of the loss from an average house is by in infiltration. Caulking should be checked yearly. In older homes where infiltration is noted between windows and frames, it is possible to install “Rope caulking” (which is a pre-extruded material which does not harden). This type of material may be pressed in place with the fingers and can be removed in the spring to allow opening of windows.

The gutters should be cleaned; both to give better operation and to extend the life of the metal. Check the downspouts to insure that they are in place and conducting the water to a proper water disposal point. At the bottom of the downspout there should be a downspout extension, underground drainage pipe or splash block. Whatever method you use, try to insure that the water is not ponding next to your foundation.

At this time of the year many of use are looking for ways to make our houses more efficient and warmer. As a result we buy caulking, weatherstripping and even products which add a plastic internal storm window. All too often we don’t look at our attic insulation or know how to evaluate the insulation which has been installed in this area.

Many Codes do not specify that attic ventilation is required; however, it is good construction practice to provide this. If you look at new construction houses, you will note the additional vent installation. These are designed to allow fresh air to enter at the eaves, while the hotter trapped air rises and escapes through the ridge vents at the top.

In the Denver area it is usually recommended that houses have an insulation value of R-30 in the attic floor and an R-19 insulation value in the walls. If your present attic insulation value is over R-19, it may not pay to add more material. If the insulation is below R-19, it would probably be advisable to bring the insulation up to an R-30.

If additional material is installed, it is general practice to install any vapor barrier on the side near the heated part of the structure. This will reduce the possibility that water could become trapped in the insulation material.

It is recommended that you not store materials on the insulation in the attic. This will compress the insulation and decrease the R (insulating value) of the material. Also should you decide to increase the amount of attic insulation, I recommend that you have an insulation company complete this task. You will find that the cost is reasonable, the job can be completed in a very short time, and that you will see a good return on your investment over the next few winters. Call a number of companies for quotes. Many a homeowner has damaged the ceiling by walking in the attic.